Where to eat in the US Virgin Islands: fish and fungi, pates and callaloo

The US Virgin Islands, St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix, share a Caribbean kitchen with an American overlay, and the everyday food is older and plainer than the resort menus suggest. Look past the waterfront and the local plate is the reward.

What to order

Fish and fungi is the dish to know, the territory’s own: fungi is a firm cornmeal and okra side, nothing to do with mushrooms, served with fish stewed down with okra, tomato and onion. Callaloo, the dasheen-leaf soup, is the other staple, and pates, fried turnovers stuffed with spiced meat or fish, are the handheld snack people queue for. Johnny cakes come with most things.

The kitchens

Before you go

The best local food is often at a lunch counter or a truck rather than a dining room, so follow the queue. The number on each page is the business’s own.