Where to eat in Montserrat: goat water on the Emerald Isle

Montserrat is the Emerald Isle of the Caribbean, small, green and Irish-tinged, and still finding its feet after the volcano that buried the old capital. The food is homely and generous, and it revolves around one dish above all.

What to order

Goat water is the national dish, a rich, spiced goat stew thickened to a gravy and eaten with crusty bread, its roots often traced to the Irish stew brought by early settlers. It is the plate to order first, and it comes out for every gathering on the island, cooked slow in a pot over wood. Around it sits plain island cooking: fresh fish, provisions and whatever the day brings.

The kitchens

Before you go

This is a small island and kitchens keep their own hours, so call ahead. The number on each page is the business’s own.